Wednesday, June 15, 2011

It's Official


I have officially been a Peace Corps volunteer for a week and a half now!  No more trainee status!!  This means we don’t have to deal with curfews, Hub Days, checking in on weekends, or Tech sessions.  Unfortunately it also means that I don’t get to see all my friends on such a regular basis.  But, the upside is that there was a conference that happened the past couple of days here in Bishkek, so quite a few of my friends who have moved to different oblasts were able to come back to Chui to attend.  It was an AWESOME couple of days.  I had a lot of fun seeing everyone and when they were in sessions I occupied myself with experiencing city life.

Let’s back up to Tuesday night.  I got a call around 7pm from my friend, Steve, saying that I needed to get to Issyk Kol hotel pronto since everyone was in town.  Issyk Kol hotel was the first place that we all stayed when we arrived in country a few months back.  The place is classically Soviet looking and by no stretch of the imagination could it be called a swanky place, but I think any volunteer would agree that their hot running water that comes from an actual shower head makes staying there amazing.  So, after I get the phone call, I decide that I can’t pass up the opportunity to see everyone, but enter the issue of language barriers.  I had to explain to my new host family why I was leaving and what I was doing.  It was a convoluted mess and at one point even called an English speaking family member to have them translate what my plan was and I why I was going to be spending the night somewhere else.  The best part of all this was when I left the apartment I thought my HM (host mom) was just walking me to the marshrutka so she could make sure I got on one to the right place, but then she had me wait a couple minutes and out comes my HD (host dad) and they drove me like a mile down the road to the hotel.  I COULDN’T BELIEVE IT!  I live within walking distance of the hotel and had no idea.  Thank heavens they drove me or else I am not confident I would have ever gotten to the hotel.  I most likely would have gone all the way across town and looped back on three different marshrutkas since I have little idea of the city layout.  This is just one example of how awesome my new family is.  I am really starting to like them a lot.  My HM is protective of me in a super motherly endearing way and it cracks me up that at 25 I have someone cooking my meals and checking in to make sure I get on the right “bus”. 

The first night at the hotel was a blast.  It may have only been a week since I hadn’t seen people on a daily basis, but it had seemed like forever since everyone had such funny stories of what they had been living at their new sites.  It was awesome to catch up with ‘em.  The only bummer of that first night was the fact that my cell phone wound up MIA.  No one has ANY idea where it possibly could have gone.  I never lost a phone back in America, but leave it to me to lose one here.  Dang it.  Thankfully, I was able to buy a new one a few days later and get my same old phone number back, so it wasn’t the end of the world.  Though the mystery of where it could have gone rages on.

On Wednesday I woke up and headed to Kirkshelk Village.  Kirkshelk Orphanage is where we had out Hub Days during PST.  It is also where my friend, Eric, is placed for his permanent site.  So, he had asked myself and our other friend, Brian, to come and help him with some renovations they are doing.  I spent the afternoon painting and most likely inhaling copious amounts of asbestos.  It was a blast though and again, it is the little things like that which make being here worth it.  Hello, how many people can say they spent their afternoon painting orphanage walls in Kyrgyzstan?  Not many, right?  Exactly.

So, after we finished up painting, Eric and I headed back into Bishkek and had a few hours to waste before everyone back at the hotel was done with their sessions.  We ended up heading back to my apartment so I could inform my family that I was staying at the hotel again.  Without a cell phone I had no other way of getting a hold of them, so I related the information the best way I could to my 12 year old host brother and hoped for the best.  Eric and I ended walking over to the hotel through the one of the fanciest neighborhoods I have seen in country.  It was sort of strange to see buildings that easily could have been right out of an American magazine.  HUGE houses with amazing views. 

The next morning I woke up and headed to work since I thought I had a meeting with my Counterpart to discuss a Talking Club that we are starting up for teachers at my University.  However, when I arrived I found out that she wasn’t able to make it since her Uncle had passed away and was in her village for the three day funeral.  It was no problem though since before she left she set up a chance for me to meet with one of my future students.  This student who I will now be calling “Dream Swan” just got her certification in Bishkek tour guiding and did and AWESOME job.  She agreed to let Eric tag along since we are both in need of learning the city better.  The three of us ended up having so much fun that our one hour tour turned into almost three.  Her English was fantastic and she humored us when we spoke in Kyrgyz.  She was even keeping score for a friendly competition between Eric and I about who had better language skills.  I believe I won, but that may have been since she knew she was going to be seeing a lot more of me.  :)  One of the funniest moments from our tour was when we were walking across the street and she tells us we need to raise our hands over our heads.  Imagine two American’s goofily walking across a busy intersection with both hands raised to the sky looking around confused.  We ask her what the benefit of this is thinking maybe it helps to be more visible and limit the chances of being hit by a car.  NOPE!  WRONG!  She starts laughing and says “well, when you get hit by a car and the ambulance comes to get you it makes it easier to take your clothes off”.  To say the least she was really funny.  Oh, and to explain why we call her Dream Swan is that almost everything with Kyrgyz culture has some meaning behind it.  So, when she was explaining what looked to me just like a fancy design on her purse, it turned out that they were actually symbols that represented the words for Dreaming and Swan.  Hence her new name…  And I have to admit that it may have been for my benefit also, since Kyrgyz names are often hard for me to pronounce and her’s, Izeeza (spelled phonetically of course) is no different.  Btw, her real name means something very close to “leaves no footprint in the sand”.  All Kyrgyz names have meaning behind them, just like most everything.  It fascinates me to hear the meaning behind everything.  But honestly, Dream Swan is a pretty BA nickname in my opinion.  :)

Oh, also, before we went on the tour, Eric and I braved the language barrier and set up a post office box.  SUCCESS!  The lady may have thought we were crazy, but we secured a mailbox for ourselves.  I KNOW that it looks strange, but really, this is how the address reads:

Kyrgyzstan
720000, Bishkek
Post Office Box 1857
Megan Sweeney

SO, that means get those packages in the mail.  And letters too.  :)  I am sharing the box with two other volunteers, so I am prompting you all to jump on the ball and send things before their friends do.  I can’t wait to finally get my first package in the post office.  I am going to be like a kid in the candy store.  And the Bishkek post office is pretty good, so you don’t need to be scared about them stealing, but it is still good practice to tape up ALL the openings, preferably with colored tape that the postal workers wouldn’t have access to here.  Or, you may also write over openings to make it more difficult to cover up the box having been opened.  If you send anything that would be deemed “valuable” put it toward the bottom of the box and wrap it within something else.  I have heard of people putting things into tampon boxes for cover.  Genius, really.  What male postal worker wants to get caught digging through a tampon box?    

After our adventure in the city, back to the hotel we went.  But only after an awesome encounter with a local.  We were headed in the wrong direction and asked a random passerby which way we needed to go and he ended up speaking a little English.  The man told us he was going to the same place we were and we walked with him for the 20 or so minutes to get the store we were headed to.  Once we arrived we thanked him and started to walk off.  As we turned to head into the store we saw that he was headed back in the direction we had just come from.  Most likely he didn’t need to go where we were at all, but he just wanted to make sure we arrived safely.  Another example of how nice people here are.  It never ceases to amaze me.    

So, once we were done in town we met up with some other volunteers and headed back to the hotel. There is a long story that goes along with the nearly 2 hours it took for a group of 7 of us to wind up back at the hotel, but I will just shorten it to: walked nearly 45 minutes across town, waited in the wrong spot for a bus that never came for another 45 minutes, had a helpful stranger flag down a taxi, then paid a butt load of money to get back to the other side of town we had walked from in order to get to the hotel.  To say the least, it is one of the lower points of learning to live in the city… But, it was worth it since night number 3 was the final day of the conference for everyone that was in town.  Randomly it turned into half the people there wearing togas.  I am still not sure how that happened, but every once in awhile a new person would come into the living room draped in a sheet they found.  It was hilarious to see the progression of participants through the night.  Good times yet again. 

The next day I ended up going and buying a new cell phone with the help of a K17 volunteer, Ryan.  She was a HUGE help.  Especially since the man who we bought my phone from spoke no Kyrgyz and I speak no Russian.  Again, language barriers can be a bit annoying, but thankfully she pulled out some Russian and I was able to buy the phone.  After that, I headed to one of the local coffee shops to chill for the afternoon on what we have endearingly deemed ‘Crack Corner’.  Not to scare anyone, because HONESTLY it sounds worse than it really is, but during our previous days adventure, Eric and I witnessed a street bum shooting up on the street corner.  Just like in big cities in America, drugs are a problem here too.  So, while sitting at the café it was no surprise that we saw one of the homeless people make a scene.  It was ridiculously hilarious.  She was ranting and raving screaming at the top of her lungs about one thing or another.  Obviously I have no clue what she was saying, but it must have been good since everyone that walked by was laughing and even the employees of the café came out to laugh at the babble she was spitting out.  But the randomness doesn’t stop there.  Once one of the male employees shoo’ed her away, we watched as she walked across the street and did what can only be described as high-kicking a random passerby.  Again, it SOUNDS scary, but HONESTLY, it was hilarious.  As the homeless woman was staggering around the woman that she randomly kicked exchanged some words and kept chuggin’ along.  It was like nothing happened at all.  I couldn’t stop laughing and neither could anyone else that was witnessing all this happen.      

Ah, man, it was a good week.  And it was even better when I came home and my family was really excited to see me.  We talked for awhile and then asked if I would like to come guest with them at my HM’s little brother’s house.  I obviously agreed and we headed over.  I was able to meet some extended family to include my HM’s mother.  Awesome old woman.  I love talking with old Kyrgyz woman, because they are always SO excited that I can speak their language. 

Again, it is the little things that make it great here. 

Friday, May 27, 2011

Mail Call!


Alright, folks, I have a permanent address!!  That means that if you’ve got some spare time and want to put together a package for me now is the time.  Well, now AND sporadically over the next two years.  :)  One of the current volunteers told us that friends and family start to forget we’re over here after the first year or so.  I am crossing my fingers that I don’t get a ton of packages in the next few months and then nadda for the next couple years. 

My friend, Catie, and I even discussed how we should set up a sign up sheet for our friends/family to pick a month they’d be willing to send a package.  That way it’d spread things out.  I’d hope that I have 24 people that’d be willing to take a month and spread the wealth (or even 12 people that’d take two months…).  I will feel this out and see if people would be interested or if I should just take packages as they come.  I am just excited for mail! 

Anything that you’re able to send would make me overjoyed, but a couple friends asked me to please make a list of items that I am craving.  Below is a quick list that I put together.  Again, I would happy with just about anything, but this may help give you an idea.  The dried fruit or any other healthy food is a BIG plus.  Eating sheep fat and fried food is really starting to wear on me.  I’d LOVE some good non fatty food.  But as I type that I realize that I did include Reese’s, soooooo, yeah…  :)

1.       Aloe Vera
2.       Colgate Toothpaste
3.       Reeses Peanut Butter Cups
4.       Dried Fruit
5.       Trail Mix
6.       Apple Sauce
7.       Rockstar (the yellow kind)
8.       Spices (cinnamon and vanilla extract come to mind)
9.       Sauce Packets
10.   Beef Jerky
11.   CDs of New Music
12.   Zumba DVDs
13.   Baby Wipes
14.   Cookies, Brownies, or any baked Goods
15.   Spiral Bound Notebooks
16.   Post It Notes
17.   Annie’s Brand Graham crackers
18.   Kraft Mac And Cheese
19.   Fruit Roll Ups
20.   Luna Bars
21.   Double Ply Toilet Paper
22.   Random things that will make me laugh
23.   Powder Drink Mix
24.   Doritos
25.   Tortilla Shells
26.   Face Wipes
27.   Opti-Free Contact Solution
28.   Seasons 4,5,6 of Grey’s Anatomy (or any TV show)
29.   USB Thumb Drive
30.   Alaskan Paraphernalia

And I figure I should probably include my address:

Kyrgyz Republic
Bishkek, 720010
304 Chokmorova St.
Megan Sweeney

BTW, I only have a mere 5 days left before I swear in as an official Peace Corps Volunteer.  It’s going to be a huge ceremony.  They have invited almost 600 people.  PC was trying to get the Krygyz Republic President to speak, but unfortunately she going to be out of the country.  Total bummer, but PC is working on getting the US Ambassador or someone equally as awesome.  No matter what, I am sure it’ll be intense swearing in with that many people watching.  I am sooooo excited! 

And my last big news is that today I took my language exam.  I passed!!!  I can officially speak an intermediate level of Kyrgyz now.  I can’t wait to see how much that’ll come into use after my service.  :)  Nah, really, it is a neat language and I think it’s pretty cool we learn it.  In fact yesterday a few volunteers and I were sitting at a café and a Russian woman came up to us and started talking.  When she figured out that we didn’t speak any Russian and were all Kyrgyz speakers she got mad at us!!  She poked my shoulder and with a disapproving look she told me to learn Russian.  We couldn’t believe it!!  In our best Kyrgyz, we spit back at her, THIS IS KYRGYZSTAN!  Maybe she should learn the native language of the country she lives in?  Just an idea.  I respect all the Kyrgyz people who are bilingual in both Kyrgyz and Russian.  And even more the ones who go above and beyond to learn English or another major world language.  The people here are incredible and I have so much respect for their language abilities.  It never ceases to amaze me when my family flip flops between all the different languages while we sit down and talk together.  It is pretty impressive. 

Sunday, May 15, 2011

PST Host Family

There is a lot that I can tell about my last few days spent living in Bishkek with my future family, but for now I am going to fill you all in about how great my current living situation is.

First off, my host family in Kant has been awesome.  I really lucked out being placed with this family.  It’s actually sort of funny that before coming here I didn’t understand how host family dynamics worked.  I didn’t get why people started calling strangers Mom and Dad and saying how many brothers and sisters they had.  I couldn’t grasp it at all.  Well, two months in and I can understand it MUCH better now.  My Kant family is actually like family now.  I have become very close with my host mom and host sister and I LOVE my baby brother.  Spending the last few days away from them really made it sink in how accommodating they have been to me the last few months.  

It set in almost immediately when I met my future host family about how close I had become to my Kant family.  The new host family doesn’t understand my broken Kyrgyz language abilities and isn’t as good about speaking in slow sentences so I can pick out words that I know.  They didn’t seem to understand that when I say “Ооба” (yes) to almost everything and how it doesn’t just mean, yes, it means that I understood them and I don’t have the vocab yet to explain much more.  They didn’t laugh at how much I say please and thank you (it isn’t common in Kyrgyz to say it as much as we do in English and my Kant family is always amused at my silly American ways) and they didn’t cheer when I learned to create a full sentence.  Simple things, but it makes me feel really good when my Kant family supports me in this new foreign adventure.  

The day that I was sitting in my future office and my phone rang I was surprised to see that Aigul, my Kant host mom, was calling. It was the first time she had ever called me and I didn’t quite know what to expect. Back when I first got my cell phone we both joked about how horrible that call would go since my language skills are still developing.  In the last few weeks I have taken to texting her when I will be coming home and that is just about the only cellular interaction we have had.  So, I was pleasantly surprised when I picked up and Aigul spoke to me and I actually understood what she was saying!  She wanted to make sure that I was ok, that I would be coming home to Kant the next day, and that I was being fed.  All very important questions.  :)  *And skip forward to today when Aigul was telling me that she told my host father that she had called me.  She said he got a real kick out of the idea of us talking on the phone because there are not hand gestures to accompany the speaking and that she told him that I was a great Kyrgyz speaker and the call went great.  Small victories. 

On my way home from Bishkek, right before rounding the corner to my house, I quickly looked up the word for ‘missed’ and practiced repeatedly how to say “I missed you” before walking into our house.  As soon as I walked through the door and Aigul looked up at me, I smiled really big and in my best Kyrgyz accent I said my practiced words.  She was BEAMING!  She laughed and repeated my sentence back and we hugged.  Then she called my host sister in and Aidi came bounding into the kitchen house and ran up to me giving me a HUGE hug and kiss.  I repeated my sentence and she started laughing and hugged me again.  Danyel, my 7 month old baby brother even remembered me and got super giggly when I picked him up.  Aigul and Aidi got a real laugh out of that too, because Danyel didn’t stop smiling at me.  These people have genuinely accepted me into their home and I love being around them. 

 I know that it is normal to feel uneasy about moving to a new family, but I not only feel uneasy about it, but I am worried they are not going to live up to my current family standards.  I KNOW that I will miss these people so much when I have to move an hour up the road to Bishkek.  However, they’ve already told me that I will be visiting often and I am welcome anytime, so I will take some solace in that.  Heck, Aigul even asked me the other day when I would be getting married, because she wanted to start saving money so she could come to my wedding back in Alaska.  When I told her that it wasn't looking good for me to get married any time soon and I had no date in mind, she told me 2015 worked for her and she and the family would be coming.  I laughed and shook my head thinking she might not be kidding…  :)

Tuesday, May 3, 2011

What did I just get done doing you ask? Well, let me tell ya…


I just had one of those moments that I am starting to cherish.  The ones where I look around at what I just experienced and it hits me that I am no longer in Alaska, but in fact, I am living in Kyrgyz Republic serving in the Peace Corps.  Tonight’s experience happened while sitting in my host family’s kitchen house right after I finished helping my host mom and sister make Manta.  But let me back up.

I came home from “school” today and my mom told me that we were going to make Manta (internet search this amazing Kyrgyz food).  Tonight was the second time she has let me help do this and she even gave me big ol’ atta girl for being so much better this go round than the last.  Apparently my manta folding skills have improved.  :)  It is experiences like tonight where I am sitting in a kitchen folding rolled out dough filled with a mixture of raw sheep meat (yes, you read that right, sheep meat; a staple in the Kyrgyz diet, but more on that in a moment) potatoes, onion, black pepper and some salt that I really appreciate simple things in life.  Tonight I had a full conversation with my host family about Osama’s death, American music, and how to make pizza.  These may seem unrelated, but conversation can be pretty sporadic and it just adds to the awesomeness of being able to communicate with them.  

Another one of my favorite moments in tonight’s conversation was when Aidi (my little sister) opened the fridge and I asked if the big blob on the shelf was cheese.  Nope.  WRONG!  It was a chunk of sheep fat that they use for making a butter of sorts.  My host mom goes on to say how much she likes sheep meat.  I say I’ve never had it and I don’t know if I like it or not.  She laughs and tells me I have been eating it all along and that the mixture we just put in the manta was sheep.  I smile and think to myself how before coming here, I don’t think I would have ever eaten sheep without feeling noxious that the thought.  And tonight, I didn’t even think twice about it.  BTW, for anyone wondering, it isn’t bad at all.  In fact, I can’t really tell much of a difference between sheep and beef.  Obviously if I have been eating it for a month or so and had no idea, it isn’t that much different than other more “American” meats.

But back to my AHA moment.  After we put the manta on the stove to steam, my host mom threw some dough into the toaster oven (it is the only oven my family has and we use it to bake EVERYTHING) and the smell of fresh bread overtook the kitchen house.  She left me in charge of watching to make sure it didn’t burn and headed off to our sleeping house (I will try to post some picture of the different between these two houses.  It isn’t that our compound is big by ANY means, it is actually relatively small, we just have two houses for eating and sleeping) So anyways, this left me sitting in our kitchen house smelling the AMAZING smell of baking bread while staring out the window watching my host father clean out the barn with our bright green outhouse in the background.  I just sat back and actually laughed out loud because life is amazing here. Simple everyday tasks take a lot longer here, but there is something about it that I thoroughly enjoy.  Not to say there aren’t days when I wish that I could just go to the store and buy some bread, but the idea of making fresh bread every three days with my family is oddly comforting.  It may be sort of unexplainable why I find comfort in these things.  But I do and that is all that matters.

And not all of these moments are food related.  I have them every once in awhile.  Like when I am walking to “school” and have to cross over the sketchy bridge where I have to balance my weight on small metal rungs that stretch over a canal.  Or when I am walking down the street at the bazaar and I actually catch part of a conversation and UNDERSTAND what they are saying in Kyrgyz.  Moments like that make being away from friends and family worth it.

So, to say the least, I am really enjoying myself here.  And tomorrow I find out my permanent site placement.  For the first few months in country we are considered PC Trainees and live in a central area where we learn Peace Corps essentials and then on June 1st we will swear in as PC Volunteers and head to our permanent sites.  There is a lot of curiosity leading up to site placement announcements, because where you get placed will influence your job, which language you will be using the most, who you will be closest to for the next two years and a number of other crucial elements.   Tomorrow morning will be sort of like Christmas Day since it is so filled with excitement.  I can’t wait!  I am actually scared that I won’t be able to fall asleep tonight in anticipation.  But with my belly full of issyk non (hot bread) and manta I shouldn’t have too much of a problem.  

I’ll keep you all posted on where I will be spending my next two years as soon as I can!  Wish me luck!!